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Thread: '88-'89 Classic Electric Wiring Diagram!

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb '88-'89 Classic Electric Wiring Diagram!

    Hey all I just got my '89 CE from Dave's Guitars and I just wanted to share this with you all. I know I was looking for a Diagram when I got my '88 to put it back original and was ecstatic when this '89 came in and was Original. The "Metal toggle" PRS used back then is an ALCO MTG 226PA switch. It can be found on eBay fairly easily.

    The wiring diagram is quite cool as when the pickups are in the "middle" position only the inside coils are active in series. It's great for Rhythm work

    Enjoy!



  2. #2
    Senior Member sergiodeblanc's Avatar
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    Thanks! This is cool info to have.

  3. #3
    Senior Member AP515's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpHj View Post
    The wiring diagram is quite cool as when the pickups are in the "middle" position only the inside coils are active in series. It's great for Rhythm work
    Are you sure? To me it seems that taping off the red wires would not allow access to only single coils. The T & B are both wired to the switch in full humbucker mode. It does look like the pups will be reversed which would give you the out of phase mode, but not single coil.

    And thanks for this but, I can't read the value of the cap. Can you print it and the resistor along with it?

    Thanks again
    1988 CE24, 1995 CE22, 2000 SC, 2006 Cu24 AP, 2006 SC AP, 2007 CuRo22, 2008 Mira, 2010 Starla Stoptail, 2012 Mira
    2007 SE Soapy 2, 2010 SE 25th Anni Cu24, 2012 SE Bernie, 2013 SE Angelus

    PRS SE50, Mesa Single RectoVerb, Mesa Lonestar, Fender Hot Rod Deluxe

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    The cap is an 022k and if you know ON-ON-ON DPDT switches:


    you'll see that in the "middle" only the white wires are connected along with the taped off red wires creating the "tap" while one of the middle lugs on the switch is still grounded so the circuit is complete.
    Last edited by SpHj; 05-22-2013 at 08:21 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member AP515's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpHj View Post
    The cap is an 022k and if you know ON-ON-ON DPDT switches:


    you'll see that in the "middle" only the white wires are connected along with the taped off red wires creating the "tap" while one of the middle lugs on the switch is still grounded so the circuit is complete.
    Thanks, I see it now. The 022 cap, is that 22 micro-farad or 22 pico-farad? I don't know what a K is for on a capacitor. And the other one, is that a resistor or another cap? Sorry but my eyes aren't too good and I can't see the drawing well enough to know. Could you post it's value too? I want to put my 88 back to original too.

    Thanks so much.
    1988 CE24, 1995 CE22, 2000 SC, 2006 Cu24 AP, 2006 SC AP, 2007 CuRo22, 2008 Mira, 2010 Starla Stoptail, 2012 Mira
    2007 SE Soapy 2, 2010 SE 25th Anni Cu24, 2012 SE Bernie, 2013 SE Angelus

    PRS SE50, Mesa Single RectoVerb, Mesa Lonestar, Fender Hot Rod Deluxe

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    No problem, always happy to help a brother out Here's pictures of the Caps. I hope they help.



  7. #7
    Senior Member AP515's Avatar
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    Well I finally got the right Alco switch in the mail and I rewired my CE24. The good news is it all works as it is supposed to (well almost), and the almost is the bad news. The tone pot does very little to modify the tone. I used a .022 uF cap. I am wondering it .022K means something different? All in all it is good to have the original T&B pups in it and it is playing well. I just need to know that I have the right caps and if I do then the old tone pot may be worn out.
    1988 CE24, 1995 CE22, 2000 SC, 2006 Cu24 AP, 2006 SC AP, 2007 CuRo22, 2008 Mira, 2010 Starla Stoptail, 2012 Mira
    2007 SE Soapy 2, 2010 SE 25th Anni Cu24, 2012 SE Bernie, 2013 SE Angelus

    PRS SE50, Mesa Single RectoVerb, Mesa Lonestar, Fender Hot Rod Deluxe

  8. #8
    Junior Member JoarE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AP515 View Post
    Well I finally got the right Alco switch in the mail and I rewired my CE24. The good news is it all works as it is supposed to (well almost), and the almost is the bad news. The tone pot does very little to modify the tone. I used a .022 uF cap. I am wondering it .022K means something different? All in all it is good to have the original T&B pups in it and it is playing well. I just need to know that I have the right caps and if I do then the old tone pot may be worn out.
    A .022 uF (= 22 nF) sounds right and what is most commonly used on a PRS. Try unsoldering the cap from the tone pot and let the loose end of the cap touch ground (e.g. to the housing of a pot.). You should then definitely hear a difference in tone if the cap is working. If you hear this difference in tone, I would suspect the tone pot (or a soldering to it) to be the culprit.
    '11 PRS Custom 24 (10-top, pattern thin, HFS/VB, 210/11 wiring)
    '10 PRS SE Torero
    '07 PRS 513 ("531" mod)
    + other non-PRS gear

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