A Technical Issue I Could Use Some Help With - Replacing Tuner Buttons
O.K. So I have a '12 CU 22 that has the Phase III nickel buttons on them. Great tuners, but the large buttons seem overwhelming on that headstock. I've always loved the faux bone look of DGT's, so I ordered the faux-bone buttons from PRS. My '07, with Phase II tuners, has the faux-bone on them and I love it.
Anyway, when I went to take the buttons of the Phase III's, they won't budge at all. Nada. I've tried as much finger pressure as possible without total force, but the high E and B are tighter than Dick's Hat Band! Anyone got any ideas about what is going on and how to resolve it?
Many thanks for help!
First, I hope you know that the Faux Bone tuner buttons for Phase III are the same size as the metal ones. I put them on a couple of my guitars and while they are an improvement, they still look abnormally large. As far as removing the ones that are on there, once the screws are out, they should come off with a tug. Only once did I need to apply leverage. To do that, I put a folded up polishing cloth on the edge of the headstock and a small piece of wood on top of that to use as pry point, and use a long screwdriver under the button to lever up. Came right off.
Just saying what I did and accepting no responsibility for what you might do. The other thing is the same thing I do with tight knobs - I slip a t-shirt under the knob, wrap it around the shaft under the knob all the way, and then use it like a sling to pull up until the knob comes off...
Last edited by uburoibob; 10-21-2013 at 06:33 PM.
Thanks Bob. Yeah, the buttons are the same size, but for some reason, I think the nickel ones tend to look bigger even though they are not. Maybe it's the reflective quality. Anyway, I appreciate the suggestions and I will try it this evening.
P.S. Did what Bob suggested and it worked great! Much better look, IMHO.
Last edited by zorak; 10-21-2013 at 07:46 PM.
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Here's a side note for others who may be reading this thread for helpful advice. Consider removing all string tension from the tuning gear before swapping buttons. Tighten the screws on the buttons and then tune back up.
If you've never noticed before, the worm gear that is connected to the tuner button protrudes from the gear housing as tension is placed upon it. It retracts when there is no tension. There is something about that movement that impacts the tuner button replacement when doing it under a load. To be clear, if you're swapping buttons when the guitar is tuned up you may end up with significant play in the gear. So... loosen it up, then do the swap.
Good advice Mr. ]-[ @ n $ 0 |v| a T ! © !