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Thread: Cleaning a Prs Guitar

  1. #1
    Senior Member Zach Schechtman's Avatar
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    Cleaning a Prs Guitar

    I am not sure what to use to clean my new Prs guitar. Please help.

  2. #2
    The best thing to start with is to just wipe the painted surfaces down a very slightly damp cloth, and dry. I highly recommend a good quality microfiber cloth, like these, that I like because they are incredibly fluffy and soft:

    http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

    Or use a chamois to dry the guitar (don't use the chamois wet like you would on a car, and don't use a sopping wet cloth, just damp). On the pickups and metal parts, make extra sure there is no excess water. Slightly damp works. Don't use a damp cloth on a rosewood or ebony fingerboard. You could ruin it.

    Wiping down the guitar with a dry cloth will generally cause swirl marks. The dampness acts as a surfactant and prevents swirl marks from the wiping action. But it's ok to wipe off the fingerboard after playing with a dry cloth.

    I think PRS may also make a microfiber cloth.

    If there is grime, smudging, etc., try the PRS Guitar Cleaner. I spray a little on a microfiber cloth, wipe the guitar with it in sections, wiping it off with another clean one, or a chamois. It cleans well and leaves a nice shine.

    The fingerboards rarely need anything. They can be cleaned with PRS fretboard cleaner or any lemon oil, but these are cleaning products. The exposed wood doesn't need extra oil. Rosewood is oily, Ebony is very tightly grained and your finger oils are enough. Maple fingerboards are infused with a finish. Just wipe off the grime, and dry the fingerboard. That's all that's needed. It's my belief that so-called fingerboard treatments are absolutely unnecessary except in the most extreme circumstances.

    Polishes are for swirl marks and scratches. These aren't daily cleaning items. If your pickups and metal parts get tarnished, there are metal polishes that PRS recommends. PRS makes a polish I haven't tried, but if you have a nitro finish, do not use their polish as it's not recommended for nitro finishes. Make sure you get something nitro-friendly, like Virtuoso.

    Although a lot of folks swear by soft all cotton cloths, microfiber cloths are actually gentler because the fibers are much finer than cotton, and they are less abrasive. Do this and you guitar will look new for a long time.

    Unless you bang it into hard things, in which case, there's the PTC to fix that kind of stuff.

    Avoid any cloths with nylon or polyester. These are harder yarns that will cause swirl marks. A lot of cotton diapers have poly or even nylon threads sewing the layers together, so these are worse than what I recommend.
    Last edited by LSchefman; 11-07-2013 at 08:22 PM.
    If something is too hard to do, then it's not worth doing. You just stick that guitar in the closet next to your short-wave radio, your karate outfit and your unicycle and we'll go inside and watch TV.
    -- Homer J. Simpson

  3. #3
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    A microfibre cloth will cover most of the part for simple dry cleaning. Use only microfibre cloths, so that the gloss surface doesn't scratch. Wash the cloth regularly as you don't want dust particles to be stuck on the cloth. The last thing you'll want is your new guitar having these "spiderweb" scratches on the top. It'll scratch the surface as well. As for fretboard and polish, there are plenty of choices to choose from. My personal favourites are made by Dunlop and Planet Waves.
    Last edited by maxtuna26; 11-08-2013 at 04:47 AM.

  4. #4
    Member Whitecat's Avatar
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    Note that a handful of PRS guitars throughout history have been finished with nitro, which means that standard cleaning products shouldn't be used. The Modern Eagle series, the 53/10 & 59/09 limiteds, lots of Private Stocks, etc... those are the first that come to mind but there could be others. In that case, I recommend Virtuoso guitar polish. Virtuoso works on non-nitro guitars as well just fine but costs a little more than "standard stuff."

    Also, for your fretboard, if you do decide to "condition" it, don't use just any "lemon oil" - use one that's formulated for guitars (Dunlop makes one I think). They are called 'lemon oil' but they are actually lemon-scented mineral oils. I have heard stories of some commercial/industrial hardware store "lemon oil" products damaging fretboards.
    HBII (faded gray black 'double' 10-top), HB12 (black gold), NF3 (antique white/birds), 25th ann. Mira 245 (frost blue metallic), KL1812, Starla (vintage cherry, IRW neck, birds), 2 x 2011 'Stripped' 58 (blue crab blue & goldtop)

  5. #5
    Senior Member sleary's Avatar
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    This is the only stuff I use in my fretboard and only use it once to twice a year. Best stuff on the market IMO

    http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm
    2013 PRS DGT..
    2012 Ibanez RG 870 premuim
    2014 Prs se Clint Lowrey
    1988 Washburn G1V
    Hughes and Kettner Grandmeister 36 with Saxon cabinet .

  6. #6
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    I have a 408 with trem and I want to clean the fretboard so every string must come off. Is it something I should think about when I remove the strings? Thanx in advance

  7. #7
    Name Manglin' Putz alantig's Avatar
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    You can do a few strings at a time if you don't want to take them all off, but if you do remove all six, a folded magazine subscription card under the trem will hold it in place (or a couple business cards). I have a couple mag cards wrapped in painters tape.
    Alan

    "I watched approximately 45 seconds of 'Rock Of Ages'. It was like getting punched in the soul." - Abby Krizner

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