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Thread: SE neck repair

  1. #1
    Senior Member toothace's Avatar
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    SE neck repair

    Just picked up an SE Santana off ebay and it arrived with a loose neck. Insurance claim is under way. I'm wondering ...has anybody here reglued or had an SE neck reglued?

  2. #2
    Angry Southern Gentleman Hopeful Sinner's Avatar
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    Sergio?

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    Senior Member sergiodeblanc's Avatar
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    Yessir.

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    Senior Member toothace's Avatar
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    How did you handle it Sergio?

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    Senior Member sergiodeblanc's Avatar
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    My whole guitar was broken in a billion spots so it required a bunch of gluing and full refin which I'm assuming you don't wanna do... Depending on how bad the damage is I think you could either steam off the neck and reset it, or try to pry it gently apart and get as much glue into the joint as possible and then clamp it.

    Got any pics of how bad it is?
    Last edited by sergiodeblanc; 02-19-2014 at 06:23 PM.

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    Senior Member toothace's Avatar
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    This was gonna be my "Design on a Dime" entry…a refinish was already scheduled before it even arrived. I emailed the PTC and obviously they said they would have to see it before saying anything definitive about a repair. Should I try to squeeze some glue in there and clamp it or should I go ahead and get the finish off and see shat's what?

  7. #7
    Almost was a FG22 owner.. WEDGE's Avatar
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    If it sets clean I would glue it and clamp it, the glue is stronger than the wood.
    ​Secretary of Crackwood Addiction

  8. #8
    Senior Member sergiodeblanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toothace View Post
    This was gonna be my "Design on a Dime" entry…
    Oh Yeah! You get bonus points for the broken neck.

    Now if it were me... I would make sure the wood glue from the garage is brought up to room temperature, have a few drinks (preferably something high proof and with a parasol in it) and then worry about screwing it up for an hour or so while checking to see how much it'll cost you, and how long it will delay your project to get a luthier to fix it for you.

    When you are at that happy-tipsy point in the evening where you are prone to making irrational decisions; pry that sucker GENTLY apart and squeeze in some of that glue you brought in from the cold a few hours earlier, wipe the excess glue up with a damp rag that'll dripping out of the thing and all over your rug (you WILL be doing this in the family room or perhaps a guest bedroom if you have one), clamp the sucker real good with something protecting the frets, and then sit back and finish the bottle you started while stressing out thinking you ruined it.... but that's just what I would do.

    I wouldn't start taking the finish off yet, I'd want to hit that crack right away to make sure that there's no external debris getting in there.

    I'm sorry this happened to you buddy, but I'm way more excited for you too.. You'll learn a whole lot more doing this project than you anticipated, and maybe the insurance claim will get you another non-broken SE... Two is always better than one.

  9. #9
    Defender of the Universe HANGAR18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WEDGE View Post
    If it sets clean I would glue it and clamp it, the glue is stronger than the wood.
    Only if it is the right glue would you have a chance at achieving that whole "glue is stronger than the wood" bit. Industrial tightbond wood glue is much stronger than what you can buy in most stores. StewMac sells glue and I've never messed with the new Gorilla wood glue. You'll need really good clamps too.
    MEGADETH - METALLICA - JUDAS PRIEST - IRON MAIDEN - SLAYER - BLACK LABEL SOCIETY - TED NUGENT - AC/DC - TWISTED SISTER - KISS - CHEAP TRICK - ZZ TOP

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    Member lgk1208's Avatar
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    Titebond 2 or Titebond 3 will be what I would buy. Get at most stores. And yes its stronger than the wood. I am a cabinet shop owner and I work with it all the time. Titebond 3 is a more "brownish color" , waterproof, runnier, and more dry time. I have used the Gorilla glue and I would not recommend it because it "foams" and takes a lot of attention to keep wiping the foam off as its drying.
    2012 SE Custom 24

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    Defender of the Universe HANGAR18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lgk1208 View Post
    Titebond 2 or Titebond 3 will be what I would buy. Get at most stores. And yes its stronger than the wood. I am a cabinet shop owner and I work with it all the time. Titebond 3 is a more "brownish color" , waterproof, runnier, and more dry time. I have used the Gorilla glue and I would not recommend it because it "foams" and takes a lot of attention to keep wiping the foam off as its drying.
    Yes, regular Gorilla glue foams up like a mad beast but what about the new wood glue that the Gorilla brand is making? I wonder how it compares to the Tightbond stuff.
    MEGADETH - METALLICA - JUDAS PRIEST - IRON MAIDEN - SLAYER - BLACK LABEL SOCIETY - TED NUGENT - AC/DC - TWISTED SISTER - KISS - CHEAP TRICK - ZZ TOP

  12. #12
    Member lgk1208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HANGAR18 View Post
    Yes, regular Gorilla glue foams up like a mad beast but what about the new wood glue that the Gorilla brand is making? I wonder how it compares to the Tightbond stuff.
    Ive used the gorilla brand wood glue too. It is just like titebond.
    2012 SE Custom 24

  13. #13
    Senior Member toothace's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]




    Here's an update…I used Crown Tuff-Strip on the finish. Instructions say let sit 15 minutes…,pore like 15 HOURS! LOL

    Some got through the tape and ate through one of the inlays...



    Sanded with 80 grit to get all remnants of clearcoat. The filler seemed like it was about a millimeter thick and was barely touched by the stripper...





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    Senior Member sergiodeblanc's Avatar
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    You're gettin' there! Keep at it!

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